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Pippin Fresh: A Favorite Apple Variety Meets Its Season
- Bob Benenson
- 7 days ago
- 4 min read
Cox's Orange Pippin Has a Great Name and a 200-Year Heritage
Good event teams pull off some magic tricks. Take the folks who set up Green City Market's massive Chef BBQ fundraiser this past Thursday (September 4). They surrounded the entire footprint of the Market's flagship Lincoln Park location with tall fences, set up well more than 100 tents for the participating restaurant and beverage providers, and set up tables and more tents for the VIP area.
It looked like this:
Less than 36 hours later, I was back for the market's regular Saturday session, and it looked like... any other Saturday farmers market.
Lots of peak season beauty still abounds. Eat this rainbow (at the stand of Iron Creek Farm of La Porte, Indiana).
But the transition to fall crops is on. The biggest news for me was the season arrival of one of my favorite artisan apple varieties: Cox's Orange Pippin, shown in the photo at the top of the article.
So what the heck is a Cox's Orange Pippin? I answered that question in an article I published about this time last year. Rather than reinvent the peel, I mean wheel, here's a slightly edited version.
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Cox's Orange Pippin is an artisan specialty apple variety that originated in England roughly 200 years ago. I believe the first time I tasted one was in 2013 during my sole visit (so far) to the amazing Dane County Farmers Market, which rings the state Capitol in Madison, Wisconsin.
I've been a big fan of these sweet-tart, crisp apples ever since. Nichols Farm and Orchard of Marengo, Illinois has the broadest selection of apple varieties available commercially in the Chicago region, and not surprisingly, they are among a very few farmers market vendors where I can find Cox's Orange Pippins.
Though rarely seen in the United States, Cox's Orange Pippins are such a big deal in Britain that there is actually an orangepippin.com website. Here's their description of what they clearly view as apple royalty.
This is the classic English apple, often regarded as the finest of all dessert apples, and the inspiration for this website. It arose in England in the 19th century as a chance seedling, and has inspired apple lovers ever since. It remains unsurpassed for its richness and complexity of flavour.
Two characteristics tend to be apparent in its offspring to a greater or lesser extent. Firstly the relatively pronounced and complex "aromatic" flavour which elevates it above most other varieties. Secondly, the striking and attractive orange-red colouring.
It is the range and complexity of flavours which makes Cox's Orange Pippin so appealing to enthusiasts of the "English" style of apple. This is a variety for the connoisseur, who can delight in the appreciation of the remarkable range of subtle flavours - pear, melon, freshly-squeezed Florida orange juice, and mango are all evident in a good example. Almost all other apples taste one-dimensional alongside a good Cox's Orange Pippin.
Clearly a lot going on with this apple. Here is how the Specialty Produce site of San Diego describes what you do with it.
Cox’s Orange Pippin apples have a balanced, sweet-tart flavor well suited for fresh preparations. The apple is often consumed straight, out of hand, and is eaten as a snack or healthy dessert to savor the variety’s unusual flavor. Cox’s Orange Pippin apples can also be chopped and tossed into salads and slaws, sliced and dipped into caramel, peanut butter, or chocolate, blended into smoothies, or served with soft cheeses on appetizer platters. In addition to fresh preparations, the apples can also be pressed into juices and ciders, dried into apple rings and strips, or canned for extended use. While more uncommon, Cox’s Orange Pippin apples can be incorporated into baked goods and hold their shape well when heated. The apples are traditionally used in pies, tarts, crumbles, and crisps, or they are simmered into jams, jellies, chutney, and sauces for roasted meats.
Its health benefits spelled out by Specialty Produce are similar to those of many other apple varieties.
Cox’s Orange Pippin apples are a source of fiber to regulate the digestive tract and potassium to balance fluid levels within the body. The apples also provide vitamin C to strengthen the immune system, vitamin B6 to maintain amino acid levels within the bloodstream, quercetin to contribute anti-inflammatory and antioxidant-like properties to protect the cells against free radical damage, and other amounts of vitamin K, copper, boron, calcium, and manganese.
Cox's Orange Pippin is, of course, one of many artisan varieties that are available in late summer and fall, albeit for short periods of time. If you're fortunate to shop at a farmers market served by Nichols Farm and Orchard, you can advance your apple knowledge right there.
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My market haul was modest but had a lot of variety. On the left. Bubblegum plums and field tomatoes from Mick Klug Farm (St. Joseph, Michigan). On the right, those Cox's Orange Pippin apples and German Butterball potatoes from Nichols. In the middle, bratwurst from Finn's Ranch (Buchanan, Michigan) and... a sandwich?
The sandwich was purchased at the stand of Closed Loop Farm, which produces microgreens on Chicago's South Side. I was on a Naturally Chicago call with Adam Pollack and Maggie Dohr of Closed Loop on Friday, and I learned they planned to use Saturday's Green City Market to test an all-local sandwich, their take on a bacon-lettuce-tomato sandwich (with microgreens replacing the lettuce).
Made in partnership with the Hatchet Burger pop-up, it was a really tasty sandwich with superb ingredients, and it was big enough to split into two meals. Thumbs up.
More market adventures coming soon.