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New Publican Executive Chef Had Much Deserved Celebration
- Bob Benenson
- Aug 23
- 3 min read
Leading Chefs Joined August 21 Salute to Rob Levitt
July 11 was one of my favorite days this year, because that's when I learned that Rob Levitt — chef, expert butcher, and a longtime friend — had been honored with the role of new executive chef at One Off Hospitality's The Publican, a leader in Chicago's culinary community since it opened in 2008.
So I was pleased to accept an invitation to attend the welcoming celebration for Rob, held at The Publican on Thursday evening (August 21). The event took place on the patio, with a full view of the vibrant culinary scene that has grown exponentially since The Publican was a lonely outpost in the Fulton Market District — then still Chicago's historic meatpacking center.
The event drew much Chicago culinary royalty who are among Rob's friends and admirers.
This is Rob's return to a full-scale restaurant's helm for the first time since he and his wife Allison, a pastry chef, ran Mado in Chicago's Bucktown neighborhood.
Mado, which also opened in 2008, received plaudits for the creativity of its menu, including rave reviews from the Chicago Tribune and the New York Times. But the couple left in 2010, with hints of conflict with a business partner (the restaurant abruptly closed later that year). In 2011, they opened Butcher and Larder, a whole animal butcher shop in Chicago's West Town neighborhood.
It was there that I met Rob in 2015, early in my second career as a Good Food writer and advocate, and I followed him when Butcher and Larder moved the next year into Chicago's Local Foods, an ambitious attempt at a grocery store dedicated to selling mostly locally produced food. I became a regular shopper, and I learned more about meat from Rob than I think I'd known my entire previous life.
Local Foods unfortunately ran into financial difficulties (which ultimately resulted in its closure in 2022). So when One Off Hospitality in 2019 offered him the role of chef and head butcher at Publican Quality Meats, its upscale deli and cafe, Rob jumped at the opportunity and thrived in that position until his appointment as The Publican's executive chef.
While the promotion is a big step up in stature, Rob has enjoyed one of the shortest relocations possible, as Publican Quality Meats is located directly across Green Street from The Publican.
And as is the case with any One Off Hospitality event, the Celebration was a small plates feast.
There was no ceremony at the event, but attendees received the following gracious note from Rob, that included his gratitude to One Off Hospitality partners Chef Paul Kahan, Donnie Madia, Eduard Seitan, and Terry Alexander.
A note of thanks for spending this beautiful summer evening with us at The Publican. It seems appropriate to celebrate this new era of this storied restaurant at the height of Chicago's market season. It's what I, in my new role as chef, aim to celebrate every day. The Publican has anchored the Fulton Market district for almost 18 years, and while that may seem like a long time, I am thrilled to lead this incredible team through The Publican's next evolution as it continues to contribute to our neighborhood and the city we love.
Thank you to Paul, Donnie, Eduard and Terry, who have been personal heroes since my early days cooking. It is a true honor to have my name at the bottom of the menu, and to now helm a restaurant that is a significant part of Chicago's vibrant restaurant.
Congratulations, Rob, and I look forward to visiting soon and checking out your new menu.
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